Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: New Member

  1. #1
    ORCA Forum Member JerryLA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Little Rock, AR
    Posts
    2

    New Member

    Hello all. This is the second time I have visited this site and decided to join. I have been fighting an algae problem off and on since about 5 months in on my new build of a Red Sea Reefer 350. I read last night about dosing Hydrogen Peroxide. I went to the store, got some and started dosing last night. My tank has been up and running for a year this month. I started having brown algae then recently red algae. I check all my levels weekly, all levels seem acceptable and cant seem to get a handle on the algae. The algae has killed off a few zoanthids and now working on a Kryptonite Candy Cane coral. Doing a water change weekly. Running Reef Octopus skimmer and 2 chamber reactor with GPS and Carbon. Hope the peroxide helps.
    Anyway, glad to be here and look forward to cussing and discussing the hobby.

    Greetings from Little Rock.

  2. #2
    Web Admin
    OREO Club Member
    ORCA Forum Member
    ccampo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    1,827
    Welcome to the ORCA forums.
    Jim will probably chime in here to tell you more about Hydrogen Peroxide.
    Good Luck,
    Cesar Campo
    ORCA Web Admin 2009-2015

    My 210g Journal

  3. #3
    OREO Club Member
    ORCA Forum Member

    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    18
    Welcome! Do you have any shrimp? My understanding is that peroxide can be hard on them. Just an FYI to look into it in case you haven't stumbled across that tidbit yet.

  4. #4
    ORCA/OREO Club Sponsor
    ORCA Forum Member

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    473
    The type of algae can tell you what is going on in the tank. If you have excessive brown algae (diatom) that can be due to hi silicates in your water. Diatoms feed on silicate like our body uses calcium. Take away silicate and you will help take away the building structure of the algae. Silicates are one of the hardest things to get rid of in water including R.O. water. Make sure your r.o. has a d.I.. The Total desolved solids (TDS) reading after the d.i. should be 1ppm or less.

    Green algae is a sign of high phosphate/ organics. Your doing water changes weekly and that is good. Just make sure the R.O.D.I. are all in good working order and also make sure you are doing 30% or more. The higher the % the better. Make sure you match spacific gravity, temperature, alkalinity and Magnesium if you doing the 50% or more. Also food reduction helps.

    Red or cyano algae is mother natures way of combating waste. Once you do enough water changes to remove the waste you may still have it around. That is due to their ability to convert nitrogen into nitrate and feed itself. Good flow in the areas that it is growing helps stop this. Hydrogen peroxide will too. Food reduction as well.

    What are your tank levels for calcium,alkalinity,magnesium,phosphate and nitrate? Also what is your temperature swing in a 24 hr period?

  5. #5
    OREO Club Member
    OREO Raffle Coordinator
    ORCA Forum Member

    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    South east orlando lake nona area
    Posts
    511
    Quote Originally Posted by smpolyp View Post
    The type of algae can tell you what is going on in the tank. If you have excessive brown algae (diatom) that can be due to hi silicates in your water. Diatoms feed on silicate like our body uses calcium. Take away silicate and you will help take away the building structure of the algae. Silicates are one of the hardest things to get rid of in water including R.O. water. Make sure your r.o. has a d.I.. The Total desolved solids (TDS) reading after the d.i. should be 1ppm or less.

    Green algae is a sign of high phosphate/ organics. Your doing water changes weekly and that is good. Just make sure the R.O.D.I. are all in good working order and also make sure you are doing 30% or more. The higher the % the better. Make sure you match spacific gravity, temperature, alkalinity and Magnesium if you doing the 50% or more. Also food reduction helps.

    Red or cyano algae is mother natures way of combating waste. Once you do enough water changes to remove the waste you may still have it around. That is due to their ability to convert nitrogen into nitrate and feed itself. Good flow in the areas that it is growing helps stop this. Hydrogen peroxide will too. Food reduction as well.

    What are your tank levels for calcium,alkalinity,magnesium,phosphate and nitrate? Also what is your temperature swing in a 24 hr period?
    Great advise. most all of this leads back to quality RODI and Water changes. I'll add that H202 "hydrogen Peroxide" is typically used to increase dissolved oxygen which is anti bacterial anti algae among many other things. but its also very rapidly added and removed in Salt water.
    the most efficient way to use it is very slow over time like an "Oxydator" unit. they release H202 very very slowly which typically keeps the tank saturated with oxygen which in turn makes life hard for the algae n so forth. There not a fix all and there a slow n steady concept.

    Dumping a shot glass of h202 into the tank once in the AM, is far less effective over all than say dosing 1 ml 30 times a day. The reaction happens almost instantly and the pure water and pure oxygen is released almost instantly and off gasses onto the surface of the tank. Its absorption into SW is slower than it rises and off gasses typically. Oxydators use a special catalyst to break it down slowly and then hydraulics force small amounts of h202 into the tank in a special simple reactor designed to release it very very very slowly over weeks helping to keep the tank saturated with 02.

    That how i understand it, I'm not a chemist. I do run "Oxydators" in all my tanks. But i also have tangs and pretty good husbandry which is also all anti algae.

    I do get cyano and diatoms occasionally. And to be honest There normal reactions to things happening in a closed reef system. One of the true things to master in this hobby is a perfectly clean looking tank, which i might add will likely not grow corals as well as some folks think. a little dirt can go along way towards coral growth. you just wan *** int he correct usable format for corals and not in a way undesirables can out compete for it int he water column.

    Great to have you on the forums.
    Four individual systems Right now.
    Modified Red sea 250 with attached 20 gal frag system XR15 pro light on FRAG tank, combo t5 reef bright led on main tank, now @100 gal total mostly sps tank, auto WC, Custom life reef filtration system Fuge and skimmer. KALK ATO chiller mp10's.
    30gal red sea 130d lps/softies/anemone tank, kalk ato, reef bright led strip.
    40 quarantine set up.
    500 total gallon marineland 300 DD main system 18 months old now and stabilized. T5 VHO lights/ BLUE led strip, Fully custom built LIFE REEF sump and FUGE, AWESOME 60" tall skimmer, and 1000+ gallon rated custom Ca reactor, attached SPS frag system and LPS frag system.
    I am expanding into this one ATM bit by bit,

    Still lots to learn about the hobby but I have amassed a great collection of real beauties and a FRAG saw will be in my future I think. I have broken past the stage of keeping things alive and now there actually growing out. Which is a big hurdle for many beginners I must admit. Good information and advise is hard to get sometimes and the club has done wonders with respect to quality advise and help in the hobby.

    THANKS Orlando Reef Educators Organization!!!!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

 
Coral Restoration Foundation MACNA 2017 MASNA